Written by Lisa Tadewaldt and published on https://www.urbanforestprofessionals.com/blog/spring-tree-care-tips/.

As the weather begins to brighten and the trees start to blossom, it’s safe to say that we are finally in the midst of spring! As such, there’s no better time than now to get outside and prepare your garden for the spring/summer seasons so it can flourish, thrive and achieve its full potential. Whether you are a new homeowner looking to take care of the trees in your yard by yourself, or a landscaper looking for a setlist of what to do – this list will provide you with the guidance and steps that you need.

Springtime is the perfect time to start providing your trees with some extra love and attention. Because they have been essentially asleep for the past three months, as well as having had moisture and debris build upon them, it is vital that your trees are taken care of as early into spring as possible.

from AAA Tree Lopping Ipswich https://ift.tt/3mz2ZOv
via IFTTT

Written by Admin and published on https://blog.davey.com/.

Watersprouts are inactive buds that get triggered and grow rapidly as well as unpredictably. They commonly grow vertically, defeating the purpose of the original topping cut and are normally inadequately affixed which makes them a threat for failure. If you have actually seen your tree has actually been topped and also a whole lot of watersprouts have been creating at the sites of the damages, do not fret, not all hope is lost.

The process is described as crown remediation. Crown remediation entails strategically removing watersprouts and also any type of dead branches while cultivating well put strongly connected watersprouts right into new branches. This process takes time as well as numerous prunings over a number of years yet will at some point renew and also reform your trees crown.

Pollarding is a trimming technique that is typically done to huge expanding, deciduous trees that grow readily after trimming. This specific approach of trimming should be begun while a tree is of a young age. The initial action of pollarding is to use heavy intermodal heading cuts on the subject.

Should You Seal Cut Tree Limbs?

Consequently, one have to eliminate the sprouts every year or every various other year. These areas will begin to develop handles or knuckles where the sprouts proceed to come from as well as time after time you have to continue removing the sprouts. The positioning of the cut is really important for this method to be successful.

An additional important variable that is crucial for the trees survival is the timing of the pruning. It is EXTREMELY vital that sprouts are removed throughout the dormant season. Typically, the dormant season is when the tree sheds all of its vegetation during the fall/winter months. This is essential since the tree needs its leaves to produce energy so it can resprout after pollarding.

Pollarding is a strategy that came from in Europe centuries earlier. Traditionally this method was made use of to generate a big quantity of tiny size branches, which could be utilized for gas or crafts, from a consistent source. By reducing branches back every year and also gathering the lengthy slim watersprouts, farmers had a good source of food for animals, fuel for the fire, and also structure product for baskets, fences and also frameworks.

In this scenario the method is made an application for the objective of keeping road trees in restricted areas. As opposed to allowing a tree to grow to complete dimension, which can trigger interference with electric energies and also frameworks, pollarding can maintain a tree healthy and balanced at a much smaller sized and convenient dimension. The most essential distinguishing variable between a pollarded and a topped tree is the large knuckles that develop with pollarding.

The knuckles can be pictured as big scars. Every time the small diameter watersprouts are gotten rid of, the tree has the ability to heal compartmentalizing the wounds and re-sprout from inactive buds in the surrounding tissue the next year. On the various other hand, topping does not cause knuckle development. Instead it results in a large un-healable wound that usually leads to the fatality of the tree.

Do you have a topped tree that you want to revitalize or are you thinking about pollarding your Sycamore? At Arborist Now we have competent arborists that know exactly how to stabilize your demands with those of your tree. Request for a consultation with us today so we can better discuss the health of your trees.

Is Pollarding Bad For Trees?

The maintenance of your lawn and garden will certainly contribute to the visual charm of your home. As a Melbourne property owner, it’s your obligation to keep your residential or commercial property looking neat and also attractive whatsoever times. Healthy vegetation and also trees will make your residential or commercial property attract attention and increase its value. In contrast, old or diseased foliage can take away from your building’s appearance and also minimize its worth.

By offering your frameworks the additional interest they require, you can prevent having to remove them in order to restore your landscape. Old and also unhealthy structures may require removal for security sake as well as to prevent the danger of contaminating various other vegetation on your property. Nevertheless, several trees can be saved and brought back by using the proper methods for their care.

Unless you are knowledgeable in tree monitoring, it is best to consult a specialist tree lopper prior to making any kind of choices on just how to treat your structures. A knowledgeable arborist can lead you into what treatments or techniques function best for the various kinds of vegetation on your residential or commercial property. Arborists are experts in their area; their counsel can prevent you from making expensive mistakes that can harm your garden as well as outcome in their elimination.

Original post here https://ift.tt/3mBTgr0.

from AAA Tree Lopping Ipswich https://ift.tt/37U2gDA
via IFTTT

Written by Valerie A. and published on https://www.lowes.com/.

As leaves fall from the trees each autumn, branches formerly covered in a canopy of dense foliage come out of hiding. Although many gardeners would rather never deal with the falling mess of leaves, I relish this time as an opportunity to inspect each tree canopy. It’s now that I carefully make note of any branches I may need to remove from my trees. Taking advantage of these dormant months gives me time to develop a plan for pruning and trimming trees in my landscaping.

How to Prune Trees and Shrubs

Pruning is necessary to promote good plant health, remove damaged limbs, encourage new growth, and maintain shape. Learn how to properly prune trees and shrubs.

Why Prune?

A
well-maintained tree or shrub is healthier and looks better – two very good
reasons to learn how to prune correctly. Proper tree pruning and
shrub pruning helps:

Maintain safety: Remove low-growing
branches if they impede passing vehicles or obscure oncoming traffic from view.
You may also need to take out split or broken branches before they have the
chance to come crashing down on a person, car, or building. It’s wise, too, to prune
out low-hanging, whip-like branches (especially those with thorns) that may
strike passersby.

Alter or rejuvenate growth: Neglected,
overgrown shrubs can sometimes be turned into small multi-trunked trees if you
remove their lower limbs; this may be a better approach than digging out the
shrub and planting another in its place.

Direct growth: Pruning influences the
direction in which a plant grows: Each time you make a cut, you stop growth in
one direction and encourage it in another. This principle is important to keep
in mind when you train young trees to develop a strong branching structure.

Remove undesirable growth: Prune out unwanted growth periodically. Cut out wayward branches, take out thin growth, remove suckers (stems growing up from the roots), and water sprouts (upright shoots growing from the trunk and branches).

Promote plant health: Trees and shrubs stay
healthier if you remove branches that are diseased, dead, pest-ridden, or
rubbing together.

Create particular shapes: You can prune a line of
closely planted trees or shrubs as a unit to create a hedge. If you’re a
hobbyist who practices topiary, you can prune trees and shrubs into fanciful
shapes.

Produce more flowers or fruits: Flowering
plants and some fruit trees are pruned to increase the yield of blossoms and
fruit and to improve their quality. You’ll need, for example, to remove spent
flowers from roses throughout their bloom time. For some fruit trees, you’ll
make many small, precise cuts each dormant season. Although this sort of pruning
sometimes ranks as a tedious chore, remember that your efforts will pay off in
lavish bloom and generous crops of fruit at harvest time.

When
to Prune

Pruning at the wrong time won’t damage plants, but it can
sacrifice that year’s flowers or fruit. As a rule of thumb, prune
spring-flowering shrubs and trees immediately after the flowers fade. Prune
summer-blooming trees and shrubs in winter or early spring, before new growth
emerges. In regions that have harsh winters, late summer pruning encourages new
growth that might not harden before the cold settles in.

Note that these guidelines are most pertinent to climates with
four distinct seasons and definite winter chill. In warmer-winter areas, timing
will vary depending on the particular plant’s native climate. If you have any
doubts about the best time to prune a particular plant, ask your Lowe’s nursery
personnel or your cooperative extension office for advice.

Pruning
in Spring

Many
plants, especially deciduous trees and shrubs, are best pruned in late winter
or early spring, just before they break dormancy. Heavy frosts have abated, so
the plants are less likely to suffer cold damage at the point where you make
your cuts. Deciduous plants are still bare, so you can easily spot broken and
awkwardly growing branches and decide how to direct growth. And because growth
will soon start, your pruning cuts will stimulate new growth in the direction
you want.

For flowering trees and shrubs, you’ll need to know whether the flowers are produced on old or new growth. If early spring flowers come on last year’s wood – as in the case of forsythia, flowering quince, and flowering trees, such as peach and plum – you’ll lose many flowers by pruning before plants break dormancy. It’s best to wait until the flowering has finished before pruning. But plants such as cinquefoil, which bear flowers on leafy new growth formed in spring, can safely be pruned while dormant.

When removing heavy branches, avoid ripping the bark by
shortening the branch to a stub before cutting it off at the branch collar. Use
a sharp pruning saw and make these three cuts as described below:

Step 1

About a foot from the branch collar, make a cut from the
underside approximately a third of the way through.

Step 2

About an inch further out on the branch, cut through the top
until the branch rips off. The branch should split cleanly between the two
cuts.

Step 3

Make the final cut by placing the saw beside the branch bark
ridge and cutting downward just outside the branch collar. (If the branch angle
is very narrow, cut upward from the bottom to avoid cutting into the branch
collar.)

Pruning
in Summer

A second time to prune is in late summer. Some gardeners like to
thin plants in summer, because it’s easier to see how much thinning is really
needed when branches are still thickly foliaged. And because growth is slower
at this time of year, pruning is less likely to stimulate new growth–an
advantage when you’re thinning. In cold-winter regions, don’t do summer pruning
later than one month before the first frost; if you do, an early frost may
damage the plant at the point of the cuts.

Pruning
Evergreens

Although evergreen trees and shrubs don’t drop their leaves,
they approach a near-dormant state during the winter months. The group includes
broadleaf evergreens (such as boxwood and camellia) and conifers, among them
spruce and pine. Broad-leaved evergreens are usually best pruned in late
dormancy or in summer, as outlined above. For flowering broad-leaved
evergreens, however, timing is a bit more precise; you’ll need to prune with an
eye toward preserving flower buds. Prune after bloom for evergreens flowering
on last season’s growth; prune before spring growth begins for those that bloom
on new growth.

Most conifers are pruned only in their first two or three years
in order to direct their basic shape; from then on, they’re best left alone.
Some of the most badly botched pruning you’ll see is on conifers that have been
pruned too severely, usually to keep them confined to a too-small location –
although a few conifers, including arborvitae, yew and hemlock, lend themselves
to shearing into hedges.

Understanding
Growth Buds

Pruning makes sense when you understand the role and locations
of growth buds. Select the bud you want to keep and cut just beyond it. The
resulting growth will vary depending on the bud. If your pruning is to have the
effect you want, you’ll need to learn to recognize three different kinds of
growth buds.

A terminal
bud grows at the tip of a shoot and causes the shoot to
grow longer. These buds produce hormones that move downward along the shoot,
inhibiting the growth of other buds on that shoot.

Lateral buds grow along the sides of
a shoot and give rise to the sideways growth that makes a plant bushy. These
buds stay dormant until the shoot has grown long enough to diminish the
influence of the hormones produced by the terminal bud or until the terminal
bud is pruned off–then they begin their growth. If you remove lateral buds,
you’ll redirect growth to the terminal bud; the shoot will lengthen
dramatically and tend to grow upward.

Latent buds lie dormant beneath the
bark. If a branch breaks or is cut off just above a latent bud, the bud may
develop a new shoot to replace the wood that has been removed. If you need to
repair a damaged plant, look for a latent bud and cut above it.

Pruning
Cuts

There
are four basic pruning cuts, each aimed at producing a different effect. For
cuts that involve cutting above a growth bud, make your cut as shown at left
above. Angle it at about 45 degrees, with the lowest point of the cut opposite
the bud and even with it; the highest point about 1/4 inch above the bud. Each
of the steps below can be applied to your specific pruning need.

Instructions

Step 1

Pinching is one of the easiest
“cuts” to make without cutting: You simply pinch off a terminal bud
with your thumb and forefinger. This stops the stem from elongating and
encourages bushy growth. It is typically done on annual and perennial flowers
and on some vegetables. Also use it to direct growth of small-leaved shrubs and
give the plant an even shape.

Step 2

Heading means cutting farther back on the shoot than you would
for pinching. In most cases, the lateral bud has already grown a leaf, and you
cut right above the leaf. Usually done with hand-held pruners, heading
stimulates the buds just below the cut, encouraging dense growth.

Step 3

Shearing, customarily used to create a hedge or a bush with spherical
or square form, is a form of heading that makes no attempt to cut back to a
bud. However, because plants chosen for this treatment typically have many
lateral buds close together, you’ll usually end up cutting near a bud. Shearing
stimulates many buds to produce new growth, so you’ll be repeating the job
regularly after you start. Because this method cuts right through leaves, it’s
best done on small-leaved plants, where damage is less noticeable. Use
hand-held or electric hedge shears for this kind of pruning.

Step 4

Thinning reduces the bulk of a plant with minimal regrowth: Each
cut removes an entire stem or branch, either back to its point of origin on the
main stem or to the point where it joins another branch. Because you remove a
number of lateral buds along with the stem or branch, you’re less likely to
wind up with clusters of unwanted shoots than you are when making heading cuts.
(A common mistake of inexperienced gardeners is to make a heading cut when a
thinning cut is needed.) Use hand-held pruners, loppers, or a pruning saw to
make thinning cuts, depending on the thickness of the branch being cut.

Reasons to Contact an Arborist

While
pruning, thoroughly check your tree for the following conditions. Contact a
professional arborist to address these issues or if you’re unsure about the
tree’s overall health:

• Decayed or hollowed-out wood
• Peeling bark
• Raised soil or bare roots around the tree base
• Girdling roots (roots wrapping around the tree’s trunk)

Pruning
Tools

Hand Shears: Use hand shears for
branches up to 1⁄4 inch in diameter. Scissor-type shears make tight, close cuts
on plants. Hold shears to make sure they fit your hand and feel comfortable.

Lopping Shears: For branches up to 11⁄2
inches in diameter, reach for lopping shears. Buy shears with lightweight
handles for easy use. Extendable handles let you reach higher branches.

Pruning Saws: For branches more than
11⁄2 inches in diameter, use pruning saws. Coarse teeth cut on the pull stroke
for easy and safe pruning.

Pole Pruners: You’ll need pole
pruners for branches more than 1 inch thick and beyond arm’s reach. Pole
pruners feature a pruning shear head or saw that works via rope action. Look
for pruners with a handle that disassembles for easy storage.

Hedge Shears: Use hedge shears for
shaping and snipping new growth on shrubs.

Original post here https://ift.tt/3bJqQ9h.

from AAA Tree Lopping Ipswich https://ift.tt/3e3K2AD
via IFTTT

Written by Jeanne Huber and published on https://www.bobvila.com/.

Trees die, just as other organisms do, and will show some definite signs when they are dying or dead. Deciduous trees, which lose all their leaves each winter, have most signs in common with evergreen trees, which never lose all their leaves at once.

7 Signs Your
Tree is Dying—and How to Save It

Know the signs of a dying tree.

Trees are valuable assets to a landscape. Not only do they provide aesthetics, but these towering plants also offer shade and shelter for wildlife and other plants. Sometimes a dying tree is obvious, with its leaves turning brown in the summer or branches riddled with holes from wood-boring pests. But it’s not always clear when trees are in poor health, which can make it difficult to address especially when a dead or dying tree located near a building or home. Broken limbs from a dying tree can cause injuries to people and pets and have the potential to lead to costly repairs if it lands on your home or car. Keep an eye out for these seven signs that you may have a dying tree so you can take care of it before it does damage to your property.

1. The tree has brown and brittle bark or
cracks.

As the tree is dying, the bark becomes loose and starts to fall off of a dying tree. The tree may also have vertical cracks or missing bark. “Check for deep splits in the bark that extend into the wood of the tree or internal or external cavities,” advises Matt Schaefer, Certified Arborist of The Davey Tree Expert Company, the largest residential tree care company in North America and the first tree care company in the United States. Cracks often create weakness that can cause damage in storms or other weather events.

2. There are few healthy leaves left.

For deciduous trees, look for
branches that lack lush green leaves and show only brown and brittle leaves
during the growing season. They will also have dead leaves still clinging well
into the winter instead of dropping to the ground. Coniferous evergreens will
start to show red, brown or yellow needles or leaves when it’s stressed or
dying.

3. The tree has an abundance of dead wood.

A couple of dead branches or dead wood doesn’t necessarily mean you have a dying tree. (Keeping a regular pruning schedule during the dormant season will keep your trees healthy and strong.) However, an increased prevalence of dead wood can indicate that it is a sick or dying tree. “Dead trees and branches can fall at any time,” Schaefer warns. This can potentially be a hazard to you and your home.

4. It’s a host to critters and fungus.

Pests such as bark beetles and carpenter ants live in trees that are under stress or are in the process of dying. These pests prefer to live in dead, weakened, or dying hosts. As for fungal or bacterial infections, look for cankers (discolored areas or depressed places on the bark) or mushrooms growing on the ground at the base of a tree or on the tree itself. These are indications of rot in the roots or trunk. “In time, decay will extend further within the tree leading to structural problems,” Schaefer says.

5. The tree shows signs of root damage.

Since roots run deep underground,
determining damage isn’t always easily visible. If you’ve had recent excavation
or construction projects near the tree, look out for any changes in the tree’s
health since that time that might suggest the roots were damaged in the
process. Likewise, if your tree has a shallow and/or partially exposed root
system, pay attention to subtle changes that might suggest exposure to extreme
elements and poor soil compaction have affected the vitality of the roots. Some
signs of root damage include thinning foliage, poor yearly growth, yellow
undersized leaves, dead branches, and wilted brown leaves during the growing
season.

6. It develops a sudden (or gradual) lean.

“Odd growth patterns may
indicate general weakness or structural imbalance,” Schaefer explains. In
general, trees that lean at more than 15 degrees from vertical are in
indication of wind or root damage. Large trees that have tipped in intense
winds seldom recover and will eventually die.

7. The tree fails the scratch test.

Right beneath the dry, outer
layer of bark is the cambium layer. If the tree still has life, it will be
green; in a dead or dying tree, it is brown and dry. You can use a fingernail
or a pocket knife to remove a small strip of exterior bark to check the cambium
layer. You may need to repeat the test over several areas of the tree to
determine if the whole tree is dead or just a few branches.

Can you save a dying tree?

If your
tree is sick or only part of it is dying, you may still be able to save it with
the help of an arborist. First, identify the problem: A sick tree will display
similar signs as a dying or dead tree but not as widespread. “Although
defective trees are dangerous, not all of them need to be removed immediately,
and some defects can be treated to prolong the life of the tree,” Schaefer
says. Contacting an arborist as soon as you notice any signs of a dying tree
will give you a better chance of saving it. An arborist has the training and
knowledge required to diagnose and successfully treat tree problems.

Tip: Conducting regular tree care and maintenance such as proper
pruning, treating for disease and pests, and fixing structural damage will also
help improve your tree’s health.

Still, sometimes, it’s too late to save a
dying tree.

Sometimes, there’s nothing you can do to save your tree. Even strong, healthy trees can fall victim to severe weather, disease, or infestation. If the tree is beyond saving, it’s best to remove it if it poses a danger of falling onto people or structures. “Tree risks aren’t always visible or obvious,” Schaefer explains, adding, “advanced analysis, sometimes through the use of specialized arborist tools or techniques, may be necessary.” Consult a certified arborist to determine if your dead tree poses a dangerous situation on your property.

Original post here https://ift.tt/2yBs5J7.

from AAA Tree Lopping Ipswich https://ift.tt/3e3JVVJ
via IFTTT

Written by Ben McInerney and published on https://www.gotreequotes.com/.

Pruning is the most common tree maintenance procedure. Although forest trees grow quite well with only nature’s pruning, landscape trees require a higher level of care to maintain their structural integrity and aesthetics. Pruning must be done with an understanding of tree biology. Improper pruning can create lasting damage or even shorten the tree’s life.

Why is tree pruning important?

Everyone seems to have a different philosophy on tree pruning. All types of trees benefit from regular pruning.

Tree pruning is important because
– it encourages new growth
– prevents decay
– makes trees more structurally sound
– Is great for the overall health of trees

The fact that tree pruning makes trees safer and increases aesthetic appeal might not be enough to encourage you to prune your tree, so here are a bunch more reasons why you really need to implement a regular pruning program.

The top reasons you need to prune your trees

Now let’s explore why tree pruning is important-

Ensures health: Pruning keeps your trees healthy. Pruning involves removing dead, infected, and excess branches. Proper pruning also allows more air circulation and sun exposure for healthy growth. This promotes new growth, balance, and structural integrity.

Safety: Dead branches can pose a risk to life and property especially during storms. Trees near power lines are also risky. Pruning helps prevent accidents by removing high-risk branches from your tree.

Encourages fruit production: You can prune fruit trees during late winter to promote more growth in spring and summer. When the tree has less volume to maintain, it can put its excess energy stores into producing more fruit.

Appearance: Overgrown trees and hanging branches can look ugly and bring down the curb appeal of your property. Pruning keeps trees in shape and increases the value and look of your property.

More sunlight: Trees can block the entry of sunlight to your home. By clearing the obstructing branches you can allow more light in and save on power.

Growth control: You can control the growth of your trees through tree pruning. You can make a tree easier to maintain this way. Pruning trees in summer generally limits their growth while pruning in winter leads to robust growth.

Improves view: You can prune the branches blocking the view of your windows, balconies, and skylights.

What should be pruned?

What needs to be pruned depends on your objectives-

● Deadwood – You can remove dead and decaying branches to maintain the health of your tree.
● Crossing Branches – When branches grow inwards towards the canopy instead of out, they tend to rub against other branches in the wind causing the bark to sheer off. This can lead to fungal disease or pest invasion.
● Lower branches – Known as a canopy lift, this is a great place to start if you are looking to increase light.

When should you prune your tree?

The ideal time to prune trees is late winter if you want to ensure robust growth. Winter makes the wounds heal faster and ensure less bleeding of sap as the trees are dormant.

You shouldn’t trim trees during fall as your tree takes more time to recover and can develop fungi or diseases.

It’s best to avoid pruning in summer unless you want to reduce the number of fruits or growth of the tree. Fruits trees are annually pruned during late winter to help them grow more fruits.

Spring-blooming trees can be pruned right after they bloom.

Essentially, it boils down on the type of the tree and why you want to prune. So first decide your objectives and then choose the right time to prune.

That being said, you can carry out minor pruning any time of the year. For example, you can remove dead wood, shape canopy, or prune small branches without worrying if it’s summer or winter.

How often should you trim your tree?

It’s best to consider the type, size, and health of your tree to decide how often to trim. Some trees like evergreens can go as many as 7 years without trimming. On the other hand, it is a practice to trim fruit trees once a year during late winter to increase fruit production.

● As a rule of thumb, young trees should be trimmed typically every 2 to 3 years.
● For mature trees, try to trim them once in at least 3 to 5 years.

Pro tip: To save on the cost of tree trimming, opt to have the work done in winter. You will save a minimum of 20% off the price. This is because tree services are quiet during winter and the whole industry becomes very competitive.

Original post here https://ift.tt/2YQUPZl.

from AAA Tree Lopping Ipswich https://ift.tt/3mv40Ya
via IFTTT

Written by Pro Tree Service and published on https://www.protreeservice.com/.

Taking Care of a tree is equally challenging as baby care. Like a new-born baby, the tree can’t appraise the issues going on or supposed to go, one has to read its countenance and it requires year’s long study in arboriculture and professional experience. For a passionate homemaker, Backyard and its plantation & lawn are one of the high-interest parts. That is the reason, few people treat themselves as arborists and play with trees and their life as well.

Dos and Don’ts of Tree Care

There’s more to tree care than you probably think. At Pro Tree Service in Chicago, we want to help you keep your trees healthy and beautiful for years to come. It starts with knowing some general dos and don’ts of tree care. 

The Dos of Tree Care

Do prune your trees

Take a close look at your trees. Do you notice any significantly dead, damaged, and/or diseased branches? Are your trees starting to encroach on a nearby property or public-use space? If you answered yes to either of these questions, it’s probably a good time to prune your tree. Just be sure to avoid pruning during the fall, as this maintenance actually stimulates unwanted growth right before winter.

Do look for pests and tree diseases

There are a number of tree pests to look for in Chicago, including the Emerald Ash Borer, Asian Longhorned Beetle, and Gypsy Moth. Trust us when we say that any of these pests can affect the greenery in your yard. That’s why we suggest educating yourself on the signs of a sick tree. The sooner you spot a tree disease or pest and contact a professional, the greater the chance your tree has of bouncing back.

To prevent your tree from getting too close to power lines  

This is a big one. The closer your tree gets to a power line, the likelier you are to lose power during the next bad storm. Put your mind at ease and trim back any limbs that are nearing utility lines or roadways. The last thing you want is for an overgrown tree to cause damage to your home or someone else’s.

Do buy trees that are native to the area      

Keep in mind that trees only thrive in a specific area. So unless you want to throw money away on your yard’s greenery, double-check that the tree you want is native to the region. We even wrote a blog post dedicated to the most popular trees in Chicago for this reason! 

Do call a professional tree service for assistance

Professional tree care companies work to solve even the most complex tree dilemmas. Whether you’re wondering if your tree is sick or needs to be removed, an experienced tree service can help. As we’ll explain more in a bit, you’re better off leaving tree maintenance in the hands of a professional.

The Don’ts of Tree Care

Don’t trim your trees too often  

Many homeowners don’t realize that the constant removal of branches and limbs can shorten the life of some trees. Rather than prune your trees every season, get in the habit of limiting your pruning and trimming to springtime. Doing so stimulates growth at an optimal time.

Don’t do any cleanup after storm damage 

Let’s say that a nasty storm rolls through your neighborhood and knocks down your tree. While your first thought may be to go outside and start cleaning up the mess, your best bet is to get in touch with your insurance company and take pictures of the damage. Pro Tree Service also advises that you leave those storm-damaged trees in the hands of a professional.

Don’t plant trees too close to each other

A tree needs its space to maintain healthy growth over time. If you’re wanting to plant more than one tree in your yard, be sure to give them some space. Trees without healthy root growth might not reach their full potential.

Don’t try to remove a large tree by yourself

DIY tree removal carries an enormous risk of damage. Yet countless homeowners are seriously injured each year by accidents involving chainsaws, ladders, and other tree removal equipment. So play it safe and call a dependable tree service if you have a large tree that needs to be removed.

Don’t hire just any tree service

Contrary to popular belief, no two tree services are the same. You’ll find during your research that some tree care companies only specialize in tree trimming while others solely focus on tree removal. At Pro Tree Service in Chicago, we do it all, from tree trimming and removal to land clearing and brush removal. 

Original post here https://ift.tt/3igDd0q.

from AAA Tree Lopping Ipswich https://ift.tt/35BnALu
via IFTTT

Written by Christine DiMaria and published on https://www.angieslist.com/.

Leaving a stump after a tree has been cut down will leave you with issues of safety and liability, unwanted tree growth, and insect infestation. These are three important reasons to remove the tree stumps in your yard. Another issue with tree stumps is they create an unsightly yard appearance.

6 Reasons Why You Should Remove That Tree Stump

When you hire a professional tree removal service, chances are you will need to decide whether to pay to remove the stump.

Before you have a tree removal specialist cut down the dead tree in your yard, you’ll need to decide whether the worker should remove the tree stump as well. If you’re having a hard time making this judgment call, consider these factors when deciding what to do with the stump. 

1. Stumps aren’t pretty. Aesthetically speaking, the sight of a stump definitely isn’t appealing. If you’re meticulous about your yard and landscaping, removing the stump is well worth it.

2. Stumps are hazardous. Stumps are dangerous to your children. When running and playing in your yard, they may not look for the stump and trip over it. And if a neighbor trips, it’s a liability that falls into your hands. In addition, tree stumps can damage your mower if you accidentally hit one when you’re mowing your lawn.

3. Stumps cause new tree growth. Sometimes leaving the stump behind contributes to new sprouts, which can result in many small trees growing around the stump. This is unsightly to your landscaping and quite costly to try to remove because the new shoots may keep coming back, and you may need chemicals to kill them off completely. These small trees also leech nutrients from other plants located near them, so your begonias may not receive all the nutrients they need.

4. Stumps are a pain to maneuver around. Remaining tree stumps become a nuisance, an obstacle you have to maneuver around when weeding or mowing your lawn.

5. Stumps attract insects. When you leave stumps in your lawn, the decaying tree takes a long time to rot away completely. While it’s decaying, the stump attracts beetles, termites, ants, and other wood-boring pests. You may not mind them in your yard, but they can eventually spread to your home.

6. Stumps take up precious yard space. Especially if you don’t have a very large yard, the space you lose from the stump and roots may occupy a lot of space. Just think: You can use that space for a flowerbed or a picnic table.

Typically, you’ll spend extra money to grind down the stumps, but it just might be well worth it.

Original post here https://ift.tt/31vShB9.

from AAA Tree Lopping Ipswich https://ift.tt/37LyfFZ
via IFTTT

Written by Admin and published on https://treecaretips.org/.

Everyone knows that summer temperatures are cooler in the shade, but trees can help cut winter energy costs, too. The most common approach is to plant evergreen trees and shrubs on the north and northwest sides of your property.

Planting to Reduce Those Winter Heating Bills

Everyone knows that summer temperatures are cooler in the shade. But in winter, it is easy to forget that trees can help cut winter energy costs, too. With some forethought, you can save money by planting evergreen trees and shrubs on the north and northwest sides of your property.

“Planting evergreen trees and shrubs in certain areas around your house can create an effective windbreak,” says Tchukki Andersen, BCMA, CTSP* and staff arborist with the Tree Care Industry Association (TCIA). “Generally, most cold winds come from the north or west. An option for those sides of the building is to plant a dense row of evergreens. This will provide additional insulation for your building. Be sure to plant them far enough from the foundation to allow for growth.”

Creating a windbreak

The ultimate goal of planting a windbreak – or living snow fence – is temperature control. A planting design that takes into account wind speed and direction can offer homeowners benefits ranging from reduced energy costs to more efficient landscape water management.

“Wind barriers can channel winds away from your house and cut down on cold drafts getting in,” Andersen advises. “In addition, shrubs, bushes and vines planted near a house can help keep the house cool in summer.”

How far away should you plant?

Allow enough space in the tree’s root zone for roots to grow. A qualified tree care provider can assist you with tree selection if you aren’t familiar with how much room a mature tree’s roots will need. Install physical root barriers if concerns about the foundation arise.

How dense should the windbreak be?

Whether your goal is to reduce the chilling effects of winter winds or control the accumulation of snow, the density of the plantings is key. A rough estimate of density can be determined by estimating the ratio of the “solid” area (branches, trunks, leaves, etc.) to the total area of the barrier.

For example, a row of deciduous trees might offer a density of roughly 30 percent. This means that the row consists of 30 percent trees and 70 percent open space in winter. By comparison, a row of conifers might have a density of 50 percent or 60 percent in winter.

Higher-density windbreaks are better at slowing wind speed enough to cause snow to drop to the ground. Therefore, snow will accumulate both on the windward and leeward side of the row (or rows). These types of living snow fences are extremely useful for keeping roads, driveways and other high-use areas clear of drifts. This means less plowing, less shoveling and less aggravation.

Every location is different, and there is no perfect design that will be effective in all situations. A professional arborist can evaluate your planting sites and help plan an effective windbreak that will offer homeowners a variety of benefits for years to come.

What can you do?

A professional arborist can assess your landscape and work with you to determine the best trees and shrubs to plant and to care for in your existing landscape. Search for a qualified tree care professional in your area.

Original post here https://ift.tt/3dSGEIH.

from AAA Tree Lopping Ipswich https://ift.tt/35fzF8Q
via IFTTT

Written by Admin and published on https://youngzine.org/.

It turns out that as a slew of tree species age, they grow faster and gobble up more carbon dioxide than when they were younger, according to a study published last week (January 15) in Nature. The findings, which involved decades of data taken from 673,046 trees in more than 400 tropical and temperate tree species around the globe, contradict a long-standing assumption that tree growth slows as the plants age. “The trees that are adding the most mass are the biggest ones, and that holds pretty much everywhere on Earth that we looked,” Nathan Stephenson, a US Geological Survey ecologist and first author of the study, told Nature. “Trees have the equivalent of an adolescent growth spurt.

Older Trees Grow Faster!

Imagine living indefinitely! And not just that, but the older you
get, you grow faster. It seems the absolute reverse of anything you
might have heard till now about any living being, doesn’t it?

A group of scientists from around the world studied 80 years of data
on about 700,000 trees across tropical and temperate regions. They found
that over 90% of those trees increasingly got thicker and packed on
more and more bulk with time.

This means at a leaf-level growth, old trees beat younger ones hands-down, or rather, leaves-down!

Senescence – The Science of Aging

Nature normally puts a cap on the growth of animals. The phenomenon called senescence
causes cells to change and break down over a lifetime, eventually
causing death. Foresters had observed that after a certain height, many
trees stopped getting taller. A natural conclusion drawn from that was
trees stopped growing too.

But some scientists were not convinced. They noticed that trees shed and grew new limbs and leaves even as they aged. They believed that trees did not stop growing; only they were slower. Enlisting the help of scientists around the world, USGS ecologists noticed that trees are an exception to this general rule of senescence. They have almost unlimited growth potential. In fact their thesis of slower growth did not hold good.

Trees actually grow faster as they age! They simply keep on getting
thicker and larger, unless prohibited in some way such as disease,
drought or deforestation (logging). They noticed that a large tree could
put on weight equal to a small tree in just one year – sort of like
active healthy bodybuilders. In human terms, this would mean we would
grow so much, that we’d weigh half a ton by middle age, and well over a
ton by retirement!

What Are The Implications?

Well, we know that plants are the largest ‘eaters’ of carbon dioxide
today. Many ecologists believe that young forests with more trees per
area can capture more carbon and should be given importance. However,
these findings imply that older giants are way more effective than
younger ones at absorbing carbon.

One of the next steps in this research is to determine if faster
growth in aging trees correlates to more carbon storage. If proven, this
can have a positive impact. Carbon dioxide, as you know, is a
greenhouse gas blamed for rising temperatures. Finding ways to absorb
this excess gas – known as CO2 sequestration, can slow down global
warming, and will make a case for preserving old-growth forests. 

Original post here https://ift.tt/3m2C4dI.

from AAA Tree Lopping Ipswich https://ift.tt/3dMuuB3
via IFTTT

Written by NEA Member Benefits and published on https://arbormagic.com.

The trees on your property offer a wide array of benefits. An individual tree can add up to 10 percent on your property’s value, and when you landscape using trees, it can increase your home’s value by as much as 20 percent. In addition to helping to add value to the outside of your home, trees planted on the west side can actually lower your power bills by as much as three percent.

Services to Improve the Quality of Your Trees

Since the life has discovered on Earth, trees have furnished us with
two of life’s essentials, oxygen, and food. They also provide other
necessities such as medicine, shelter, and tools. Today, their value
continue to increase.

Summer, spring, winter or fall! Every season
brings a change to your yard and with each season the trees and shrubs
change their growth and shape.

Tree trimming and pruning
encourages air circulation that reduces disease extent and the
possibility of damage from high winds. Tree trimming also removes an
unhealthy or dangerous branch that can easily fail in severe weather and
allows more sunlight to reach your brake plants. Whether you need tree
pruning, tree trimming, or tree removal, you must hire an experienced
professional to help you deal with the trees, stumps and shrubs in and
around your yard.

Every tree needs proper care. A real
professional can only tell about each part of the tree. So it is
necessary to ask for guidance about various tree services.

• SHEAR OF TREES

There is various method to shear the trees, which include:

CLASS 1 SHEAR

It
is the highest quality of work. The health of the tree is most
important. Removal of dead branches from1/2 inch is being removed in
Class 1 shearing.

HAZARD SHEAR

Hazard shear is the
removal of large dead and decayed weak branches. This type of pruning is
used to lessen hazards in high impact areas.

• STUMP GRINDING

After
the eradication of the tree, the stump can be grounded below the
surface using a grinding machine. It is beneficial to grind the stumps
6-12 inch below grade. The stump grinder should be light enough for
lawns and narrow enough to fit the most gates.

• FERTILIZATION:

Trees
require nutrients to live and flourish. If any nutrients lack in the
soil, the tree will not reach its full landscape potential, it will be
more exposed to infection and insect problems, and will have a shorter
life than a similar, well-fertilized tree.

A fertilization program
is used to keep trees and shrubs in a healthy condition and to increase
their immunity against any injury from diseases and insects. However,
the addition of any soil nutrient is recommended only if soil or
greenness plant tests show a deficiency. According to experts, the two
most common elements of nutrient problems are high pH (alkaline) soils,
which can lead to chronic insufficient nutrients in some tree species,
such as red maple and pin oak, and nitrogen-deficient soils. Potassium
(K), Nitrogen (N) and Phosphorus (P) are essential plant nutrients and
these are most commonly applied.

• CABLING & BRACING OF TREE LIMBS

Cabling
and bracing helps the weak corner to minimize storm damage that can
cause damage to property. Cabling & Bracing helps support
structurally weak corner to minimize storm damage that can cause injury
and property damage. Cabling is an important measure to preserve the
overall structural health of a tree.

• TREE REMOVAL

Both
small and large trees and shrubs are removed by the experts in safe and
organized manner. Trees left to rot and died off can become exposed to
falling over at any time creating a hazard for all the surrounding
trees.

A trained Arborist can work with you to safely and
conveniently remove your tree. Many tree removals are complicated and
mistakes are costly. Make sure the Arborist you choose is qualified.

Original post here https://ift.tt/2HlWxvc.

from AAA Tree Lopping Ipswich https://ift.tt/31uf4fO
via IFTTT